Palakkad on a Platter!

by Deepa Venkatraghvan

[box]If you think Kerala is a land of sea food, think again, says Deepa Venkatraghvan, as she gives you a sneak peek into all the exciting vegetarian fare that Palakkad cuisine boasts of. Here is a write-up that’s sure to have your mouth watering and craving for some delicious Palakkad vegetarian food![/box]

Give a Malayali a banana tree and he’ll make the proverbial ‘roti, kapda and makaan’ out of it. You’ve probably seen thatched roof houses in Kerala made out of banana leaves. I’ve seen saris made out of banana fiber. And most parts of the banana tree can be used to cook up something tasty. In fact, it’s not just the banana tree. Malayalis can dish up something creative out of a variety of tropical greens and in combinations you would never have imagined, particularly when it comes to cooking. I will tell you why.

If you’re a non-vegetarian who wonders how we vegetarians get by, you’ve probably never tasted Kerala’s vegetarian cuisine. I’ve been a vegetarian all my life and I don’t think my taste buds have missed a thing. And I can credit that entirely to my exposure to the finest vegetarian dishes from God’s own country.

My father’s side of the family comes from Tirunelveli in Tamil Nadu. My paternal grand mom is a great cook but the fare does not go beyond the regular rasam, sambar, ussilis and kuzhambus. My mom’s side of the family comes from Palakkad in Kerala. Many perceive Kerala as the land of sea food. But for me, Kerala is the epitome of vegetarian food. Some of the dishes, like aviyal, moru kuzhambu and beans thoran, for instance, have made their way into urban specialty restaurants. But a large part of the cuisine remains hidden, only to be passed on through the family. That’s perhaps why they also retain that ‘to-die-for’ characteristic.

But good things must be shared, so I’m going to tell you about some vegetarian classics from my mom’s kitchen.

Curries and Thorans

Ishtoo: Ishtoo is a heavenly combination of boiled potatoes, ginger, green chilies and coconut milk brewed to a perfect stew. Ishtoo goes best with appams and idiappams.

Pulunkari: Pulankari is a dish that is sweet, spicy and sour all at the same time. The sweetness comes from red pumpkin, the spice from red chillies and the sourness from tamarind, all cooked with fenugreek seeds powder. This delicious combination is served with rice.

Kaalan: A classic vegetarian dish, Kaalan is a must-have on most big feasts. The gravy is made with yogurt and coconut. Typical vegetables that are added include yam and raw banana. Kaalan tastes wonderful when it is served with rice.

Olan: Another feast must-have, the key ingredients are pumpkin and black-eyed beans made in coconut milk gravy.  Eaten by itself, this dish can be a little bland. So it’s best served with rice and another spicy gravy dish.

Mambazha kootan:  Mambazha kootan is a delectable curry made with ripe mangoes (mambazham) cooked in a gravy of coconut, cumin and green chillies. A summer specialty served with rice and clearly my all-time-favourite.

Vazhai tandu thoran and vazhai poo thoran: Thoran is a broad term for a dry stir-fried curry made out of a variety of vegetables. Vazhai means banana and these two thorans are made out of different parts of the banana tree. Tandu, the stem and poo, the flower. The effort that goes into making these two dishes is extraordinary; yet you will find Palakkad homes diligently making them. To make the vazhai tandu curry, the outer rind of the stem must be removed and the inner portion must be cut after removing the fiber. To make the vazhai poo curry, the banana flower must be opened up and the florets separated. The hard stigma of the florets must be removed and then the florets are ready to use. Interestingly, on a trip to Sri Lanka, banana flower curry was the first dish presented to us when we asked for a vegetarian option.

Idichakkai thoran: Another one that needs a lot of effort, this thoran is made from green jackfruit pounded and stirred with a touch of coconut.

Arachukalaki: This is not exactly a curry. It is more of a chutney that is served with rice. Traditionally made with pickled raw mangoes, arachukalaki emerges in winter. In summer, raw mangoes are pickled and by winter they are perfect for arachukalakis. The pickled mangoes are ground with coconut and chillies. This is best served with steamed rice but it also makes a great accompaniment for idlis and dosas. This chutney is also made with gooseberries.

Sweet dishes

Elai adai: Elai adai is a delicacy where a flat steamed rice crepe is stuffed with ripe jackfruit preserve and steamed in banana leaves.

Ada pradhaman: A type of payasam made with coconut milk, jaggery and flavoured with cardamom. Different variations are made with jackfruit, bananas, milk or lentils. The version which is made with ripe jackfruit preserve and coconut milk and garnished with chopped coconut pieces fried in ghee is known as chakka pradhaman. Ada pradhaman is one of the main favourites served in the Onam feast.

Nombu adai: Nombu is the south Indian equivalent of Karva Chauth. In fact, in the movie Ra.One, Kareena Kapoor should have observed Nombu instead of Karva Chauth. But what does Karan Johar know! Anyway, Nombu adai is the highlight of this festival for me. Little flat cakes made with rice flour and jaggery, the adais taste best with soft white butter.

Nei payasam: A payasam made by mixing cooked rice in ghee (nei) and jaggery.

Okkarai: My all-time favourite, Okkarai is a Diwali special dish. It is made by mixing powdered Bengal gram dal and jaggery to just the right consistency and garnishing with roasted cashew.

Sarkara uperi: Banana chips coated in jaggery syrup, this is an addictive snack.

So that’s my stock of extraordinary vegetarian foods from Palakkad. Most of these dishes won’t be on restaurant menus. But you are sure to find the recipes on blogs (just hit a Google search for ‘Palakkad Dishes Recipes’). All the same, as with all things culinary, the magic of flavours comes primarily from years of practice and that dash of experience. So if you want some quick fulfillment, your best option is to befriend a Palakkad family and make your way into their kitchen or wedding feast!

Pics :

banana leaf – george augustine – http://www.flickr.com/photos/georgeaugustine/
ishtoo – desimelange.com under cc license

Chakka Pradhaman – Google Images

Deepa Venkatraghvan, a chartered accountant, loves to write. She works in the media and when she is not writing about smart investing, she pens her thoughts about life’s experiences. You can check out her personal finance blog at http://blogs.economictimes.indiatimes.com/moneyhappyreturns/

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